Salt, Civilization, and the History of Salt Making (製鹽史) on the Korean Peninsula
Throughout human civilization, salt has far exceeded the role of a simple seasoning. It has functioned as an essential mineral necessary for survival, a state-controlled monopoly (專賣) forming the backbone of national finances, and a strategic resource symbolizing wealth and power.
Despite being geographically surrounded by the sea on three sides, the Korean Peninsula possessed climatic conditions unfavorable to the production of solar salt (천일염), which requires prolonged periods of high temperature and low humidity.
To overcome these environmental constraints, Korean ancestors developed an ingenious method known as jayeom (煮鹽, boiled salt), which utilized the absorptive properties of tidal flat soil and thermal energy. This technique became the dominant form of salt production on the peninsula from before the Three Kingdoms period until the early twentieth century.
In 1907, however, during the final years of the Korean Empire, the Japanese colonial administration introduced solar salt production methods, such as the Ju-an salt fields. Under the logic of economic efficiency, these methods rapidly replaced traditional jayeom. Following liberation, large-scale land reclamation projects during industrialization, rising fuel costs, and the influx of inexpensive imported salt ultimately severed the continuity of jayeom production altogether. As a result, Korea’s indigenous salt flavors and the labor culture embedded within coastal fishing communities disappeared from living memory for nearly half a century.
This report focuses on Taean Jayeom, which was dramatically restored in Taean County, Chungcheongnam-do, in 2001. It provides an in-depth analysis of the historical, technological, nutritional, and socio-economic values of traditional jayeom. Particular attention is given to the restoration process, which overcame the absence of written documentation through oral history (oral history), and to the competitive advantages and future potential of jayeom within the modern food industry. Ultimately, this study aims to present a sustainable industrial model that goes beyond the mere reproduction of tradition.
This study comprehensively examines the ecological characteristics of Nanggeum Tidal Flat, the production site of Taean jayeom; the engineering mechanisms of production technologies represented by the tongjarak (통자락) system; and scientifically validated compositional analysis data. In addition, it explores jayeom’s potential as a global gastronomic resource, based on its designation as a Nationally Important Fisheries Heritage and its inclusion in the Slow Food “Ark of Taste.”
To this end, a wide range of materials—including reports from the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries, data from the Cultural Heritage Administration, academic research papers, and press coverage—were analyzed. All data were cross-referenced with clearly identified sources to ensure academic reliability and credibility.
Geographical, Ecological, and Historical Foundations of Taean Jayeom
1. Nanggeum Tidal Flat: A Naturally Engineered Optimal Salt Field
The most critical factor determining the quality of Taean jayeom is the tidal flat where it is produced. Located in Magum-ri, Geunheung-myeon, Taean County, Chungcheongnam-do, the Nanggeum tidal flat represents a living remnant of Korea’s traditional salt-making landscape. Unlike modern salt farms, which rely on embankments, gates, and artificial water control systems, this site preserves a rare levee-less salt field structure (無堤鹽田)—the only one of its kind still in operation in Korea.
This absence of artificial barriers allows the tidal flat to interact directly with natural tidal rhythms, forming the environmental foundation upon which traditional jayeom production depends.
1.1 Geomorphological Characteristics and Tidal Dynamics
Korea’s western coastline is recognized as one of the world’s five major tidal flat regions. Its shallow seabed and extreme tidal range create ideal conditions for extensive mudflat formation. Within this environment, the Nanggeum tidal flat exhibits particularly distinctive hydrological behavior during neap tides (조금, 小潮期).
During spring tides (사리, 大潮期), sea levels rise and fall dramatically, fully inundating the tidal flat at high tide. Under these conditions, the land is unsuitable for salt production and is traditionally used for fishing-related activities.
In contrast, during neap tides—when tidal variation is minimal—seawater fails to reach the upper sections of the tidal flat for approximately seven to eight consecutive days. This temporary interruption of seawater inflow is a decisive condition for jayeom production.
Because the Nanggeum tidal flat is positioned slightly higher than the average sea level, this neap-tide period exposes the mudflat to prolonged sunlight and coastal winds. The resulting intensive drying process transforms the sediment into high-salinity soil (hamto, 鹹土), which constitutes the essential raw material for traditional jayeom production.
This cyclical tidal pattern historically structured coastal labor systems. Periods of spring tide were dedicated primarily to fishing, while neap tides enabled concentrated salt-making labor, allowing communities to efficiently balance fishing, agriculture, and salt production within a single seasonal economy.
1.2 The Tidal Flat as an Ecological Filtration System
The soil of the Nanggeum tidal flat is not merely a physical substrate but a complex ecological system inhabited by diverse benthic organisms and microorganisms. During the jayeom production process, seawater passing through the tidal flat soil undergoes a natural filtration process.
Fine soil particles act as microscopic filters, removing impurities and pollutants from the seawater. Simultaneously, beneficial substances accumulated within the tidal flat—such as organic matter, free amino acids, and chitosan—are dissolved and extracted together with the brine. This ecological filtration mechanism forms the biochemical foundation of jayeom’s depth of flavor, producing a complex savory profile that extends beyond simple saltiness.
2. Taean Jayeom in Historical Records
Historical records from the Joseon Dynasty confirm Taean’s long-standing role as a major center of salt production. These documents demonstrate that jayeom was not a marginal practice but a strategically important industry embedded in state administration and local economies.
The Takjiji (度支志), a fiscal record compiled by the Ministry of Taxation, notes that Taean possessed a large number of salt wells (yeomjeong, 鹽井), while neighboring regions such as Seosan had comparatively few. This indicates that Taean functioned as a key contributor to state revenue.
Similarly, the Sejong Sillok Jiriji (世宗實錄地理志) lists salt as a major tribute item produced in Taean and other coastal areas of Chungcheong Province. The document also provides detailed records of the number of salt-boiling cauldrons (yeombun, 鹽盆), offering quantitative evidence of large-scale salt production.
Regarding technological evolution, historical sources indicate that various salt-making methods coexisted from the Goryeo period onward, including direct seawater boiling. However, by the late Joseon period, production increasingly converged on tidal-flat-based methods, particularly the tongjarak system. Despite its labor-intensive nature, this method offered higher productivity and greater control over salt quality.
Taken together, these records establish Taean jayeom as a foundational industry that sustained Korean food culture and coastal economies for more than a millennium.
Traditional Production Process of Taean Jayeom
1. From Tidal Flat Soil to Brine: Preparing the Raw Material
The production of Taean jayeom begins not with seawater, but with salt-enriched tidal flat soil (hamto, 鹹土). During the neap tide period, the exposed tidal flat undergoes natural dehydration through prolonged sunlight and coastal winds. This process concentrates salt within the soil itself, transforming it into a mineral-rich raw material.
Once the optimal drying level is reached, the hamto is carefully collected and transported to the salt workshop. Unlike modern salt farms that rely on large evaporation ponds, traditional jayeom production operates on a small-scale, soil-based extraction system, requiring continuous manual judgment.
The collected soil is placed into a filtration structure known as a salt well (yeomjeong, 鹽井) or tongjarak. Seawater—or sometimes previously filtered brine—is slowly poured over the soil. As the liquid passes through the hamto, salt and naturally occurring minerals dissolve into the water, producing a dense, opaque brine.
This step is critical: the quality of the brine depends on the balance between soil density, water temperature, and pouring speed. Excessive water weakens salinity, while insufficient water reduces yield. Mastery of this process relies entirely on experiential knowledge rather than mechanical measurement.
2. Natural Filtration and Mineral Enrichment
As seawater passes through the tidal flat soil, it undergoes a multi-layered natural filtration process. Fine sediment particles remove suspended impurities, while organic compounds embedded in the soil dissolve into the brine.
This filtration contributes to the distinctive characteristics of Taean jayeom. In addition to sodium chloride, the brine contains trace minerals and organic elements derived from the tidal flat ecosystem. These components later influence both the flavor and texture of the final salt, giving it a softer salinity and a deeper umami profile compared to industrial salt.
Importantly, no chemical purification or artificial additives are introduced at any stage. The filtration process depends solely on gravity, soil composition, and time—factors that cannot be accelerated without compromising quality.
3. Boiling the Brine: The Heart of Jayeom Production
The filtered brine is transferred into large iron cauldrons (gamasot, 가마솥), traditionally fueled by firewood. Boiling is conducted over several hours, during which water gradually evaporates and salt crystals begin to form.
This stage demands constant attention. The producer must regulate heat intensity, remove impurities that rise to the surface, and stir the brine at precise moments to prevent scorching or uneven crystallization. Unlike solar salt production, where crystallization occurs passively, jayeom production requires active human intervention throughout the entire boiling process.
As evaporation progresses, salt crystals emerge in irregular shapes rather than uniform grains. This irregularity reflects the absence of industrial standardization and is considered a hallmark of traditionally produced jayeom.
4. Harvesting, Drying, and Storage
Once crystallization reaches the desired stage, the salt is carefully harvested from the cauldron using wooden tools. The salt is then transferred to bamboo trays or cloth-lined containers to drain residual moisture.
Natural air-drying follows, allowing excess water to evaporate while preserving mineral content. No bleaching, grinding, or refining is applied. As a result, Taean jayeom retains a slightly moist texture and a pale, off-white color, distinguishing it visually from refined salt.
After drying, the salt is stored in breathable containers to maintain stability while preventing contamination. Proper storage is essential, as jayeom remains a living product that can absorb humidity and odors from its environment.
5. Knowledge Transmission and Labor Structure
Traditionally, jayeom production was carried out by family units or small community groups, with knowledge transmitted orally and through direct participation. Each stage of production required specialized skills, from reading tidal patterns to managing fire intensity during boiling.
Because production was limited to neap tide periods, salt-making followed a cyclical rhythm closely tied to lunar calendars and seasonal labor distribution. This temporal structure reinforced the integration of salt production into broader coastal livelihoods, including fishing and agriculture.
Today, the continuation of Taean jayeom production depends not only on technical preservation but also on the transmission of this embodied knowledge—skills that cannot be fully documented and must be practiced to be sustained.
Cultural and Culinary Significance of Taean Jayeom
1. Jayeom as Intangible Cultural Heritage
Taean jayeom is not merely a seasoning but the result of a complex interaction between environment, labor, and accumulated knowledge. Its production relies on tidal rhythms, local geomorphology, and skills transmitted through practice rather than written manuals. For this reason, jayeom production is best understood as intangible cultural heritage, where value lies as much in the process as in the final product.
Historically, salt production in coastal Korea played a strategic role in regional economies. In Taean, jayeom was produced in limited quantities and primarily consumed locally or exchanged within nearby communities. This small-scale circulation reinforced its identity as a community-based food resource rather than a commercial commodity.
The decline of traditional salt-making practices in the late twentieth century, due to industrial salt production and regulatory changes, placed jayeom at risk of disappearance. Its recent revival reflects a broader movement in Korea to reassess and preserve traditional food knowledge as cultural heritage.
2. Culinary Characteristics and Sensory Profile
From a culinary perspective, Taean jayeom differs significantly from refined industrial salt and solar sea salt. Because it retains trace minerals and organic compounds from tidal flat soil, its salinity is perceived as softer and less aggressive, even when used in similar quantities.
The irregular crystal structure of jayeom dissolves more gradually on the palate, enhancing depth rather than sharpness. This quality makes it particularly suitable for traditional Korean dishes where salt is expected to support fermentation, balance bitterness, or highlight natural sweetness rather than dominate flavor.
Chefs and artisans often describe jayeom as having a subtle umami character, especially noticeable in broths, vegetable dishes, and grain-based foods. Its slightly moist texture also allows it to integrate smoothly into pastes and sauces without extensive grinding.
3. Role in Traditional and Contemporary Korean Cuisine
Traditionally, jayeom was used in everyday home cooking rather than ceremonial dishes. It played a foundational role in seasoning soups, namul (seasoned vegetables), and fermented foods such as soy sauce and doenjang, where mineral balance directly affects microbial activity.
In contemporary culinary contexts, jayeom has been rediscovered by chefs interested in terroir-driven cuisine. Its production method, tied to a specific tidal flat ecosystem, aligns with modern culinary narratives that emphasize origin, sustainability, and craftsmanship.
As a result, Taean jayeom is increasingly featured in fine dining, culinary workshops, and food education programs, where it serves as a tangible entry point for discussing traditional Korean food systems.
4. Environmental and Ethical Dimensions
The production of Taean jayeom is inherently low-impact. It requires no chemical inputs, minimal infrastructure, and operates within the natural limits imposed by tidal cycles. This contrasts sharply with industrial salt production, which prioritizes efficiency and volume.
Because jayeom production depends on healthy tidal flat ecosystems, its continuation is directly linked to environmental preservation. Producers must maintain clean coastal conditions, reinforcing a reciprocal relationship between human activity and nature.
This ecological embeddedness adds an ethical dimension to jayeom consumption. Choosing traditionally produced jayeom supports not only cultural heritage but also sustainable coastal management and small-scale producers.
5. Jayeom as Living Heritage
Taean jayeom cannot be fully understood as a static tradition. Its survival depends on adaptation, education, and contemporary relevance. Workshops, experiential tours, and collaborations with chefs play a critical role in transforming jayeom from a declining practice into a living heritage.
Rather than preserving jayeom as a museum artifact, current efforts emphasize continued production, use, and transmission. In this sense, jayeom represents a model for how traditional food knowledge can remain meaningful in modern society—by evolving while remaining rooted in place.
Preservation, Transmission, and Future Challenges
1. Decline and Structural Vulnerability
Despite its cultural and environmental value, Taean jayeom faces significant structural challenges. Traditional production is labor-intensive, seasonally constrained, and economically fragile when compared to industrial salt production. These limitations have led many producers to abandon the practice, particularly during the rapid industrialization of the late twentieth century.
Regulatory frameworks designed for large-scale salt production have also contributed to the decline of jayeom. Hygiene standards, facility requirements, and distribution regulations often fail to account for the specific characteristics of small-scale, traditional methods, placing additional burdens on producers.
As a result, jayeom production has become increasingly rare, with only a limited number of practitioners maintaining the knowledge required to sustain the process.
2. Knowledge Transmission and Generational Gaps
One of the most pressing challenges is the transmission of embodied knowledge. Jayeom production depends on skills that are difficult to codify, such as reading tidal rhythms, assessing soil conditions, and managing fire during boiling.
Historically, this knowledge was transmitted within families and local communities through long-term participation. Today, younger generations often lack both the opportunity and economic incentive to engage in such practices.
Without active transmission, jayeom risks becoming a symbolic heritage disconnected from lived practice. Preserving written records alone is insufficient; continuity requires ongoing production and direct involvement.
3. Institutional Support and Cultural Recognition
In recent years, there has been growing recognition of the importance of traditional food practices within Korea’s cultural heritage discourse. Local governments, cultural institutions, and academic researchers have begun to document and support jayeom production.
However, effective preservation requires more than symbolic recognition. Financial support, legal flexibility, and tailored policy frameworks are necessary to enable producers to continue operating under traditional conditions.
Recognition of jayeom as intangible cultural heritage could provide a foundation for long-term sustainability, but such designation must be accompanied by practical measures that support producers on the ground.
4. Education, Experience, and Public Engagement
Educational initiatives play a crucial role in revitalizing jayeom. Workshops, cooking classes, and experiential tourism allow participants to engage directly with the production process, transforming abstract heritage into tangible experience.
These programs also help reframe jayeom not as an obsolete practice, but as a meaningful contemporary activity connected to sustainability, local identity, and food ethics.
By integrating jayeom into culinary education and cultural tourism, producers can diversify income sources while maintaining traditional methods.
5. Toward a Sustainable Future
The future of Taean jayeom depends on balancing preservation with adaptation. Maintaining traditional techniques does not require resisting all change, but rather ensuring that innovation does not undermine core principles.
Sustainable continuation will require collaboration between producers, cultural institutions, policymakers, and consumers. By valuing quality over quantity and heritage over efficiency, jayeom can remain a living practice rather than a relic of the past.
Ultimately, the preservation of Taean jayeom is inseparable from the preservation of the tidal flat ecosystem and the cultural landscapes that sustain it.
